Today I got back from Nsua Lembongan and met up with my Spanish friend Lagui for lunch (we met a few days ago over a discussion on avocado shakes). I am amazed how easy it is meeting people traveling on my own. It's always a little scary when I first arrive in a new country by myself. I always think, what if I don't make friends? and then in a day or two I do!
Lagui asked, "Do you want to surf with me this afternoon?" I responded, "sure! but you know I'm a beginner right?" I was starting to feel a little confident, previously having had no problem getting up on my friends 6'6" board. So I rented a 6'6" board that was quite narrow and the guy told me it wasn't a beginner's board. "I think I'll be okay,” I said nonchalantly.
Off I went: surfboard under my arm with a cute boy walking down the beach. I was starting to feel a little cool actually. When we got in the water Lagui said "see you later?" and I was like, "yeah, see you later."
Thank-goodness I really didn't see him otherwise he would have seen quite the show.... First of all I was trying to catch the smaller waves (being a beginner and all) but my board was too small so I was having a hard time actually getting the wave. "So, I thought, I need more powerful waves for this board (obviously) I better go near the back and catch some bigger waves!"
I paddled hard to get to the back and encountered some bigger waves that were definitely too big for me! I tried to catch this rather large wave (for me anyways). It was steep and I took a nosedive. I came flying off my board, crashing head first in the water. The wave came tumbling down on me sending my body somersaulting and flipping every which way in the water. I would come up for air only to have another wave come crashing down on me.
I tried to relax as much as possible but after repeatedly being trapped by the waves, I started to panic a little. Finally, there was a break in the waves. I took this opportunity to paddle like mad towards shore, knowing there would likely be another big set of waves to come.
My hair was completely pushed forward in my face, having lost my hair elastic in the water. When I finally felt "safe" I tried pushing the hair out of my eyes to discover it was completely tangled up in my nose stud. I was holding my nose, hair all wild and in my face, trying to ride the foam to shore. I'm sure I was quite the sight.
When I got out of the water and untangled my hair from my nose stud, I sat on the beach waiting for Lagui. My eyes were really sore (probably from sand) and I really wanted to go back, but felt it would be rude b/c Lagui would have had no idea what happened to me.
I must have looked pathetic b/c this guy stopped and asked if I was okay and had I taken a big fall? As well a German couple asked if my nose was okay? I sheepishly explained it was just my hair caught in my nose stud...
What a day! So frustrating! But I learned my lesson. I am a definite beginner and I should know my limits. Next time: Big board and small waves!
At dinner, Sam and Louis, who have been surfing for a while made me feel better about my surfing disaster. We had quite the international group for dinner: Lagui from Spain, Louis from Brazil, Sam from Sweden, and Zella from Slovenia. I was the only one who was uni-lingual. They could all speak at least 3 languages fluently. They graciously spoke English for my sake (I really need to learn another language!)
Sam said it takes a good 6 months of surfing before you experience the addiction. Surfing is unlike any sport I've ever tried. It really takes some serious perseverance to become good! Going back to Canada, I wonder if I'll ever get there? But I've had fun here regardless! Maybe there will be some surf trips to Tofino in the future (Andrea?)
4 months of traveling, 6 countries visitied, 1 pair of flip-flops...
